LRF: What tackle do I need to start?

This is just a quick article to explain to a friend the bits and bobs that come in useful when you first consider setting yourself up for a spot of Ultra light fishing. I will expand on it much more later. I’ve been reading more and more lately about people wanting to give light tackle and lures a try, but some of the recommendations coming from guys who haven’t tried it are just taking one or two people off track.

Moreso than with standard (bass) lure fishing, LRF equipment really needs to be quite specific if you want to get the best from it. That’s certainly not to say it’s complicated though! Far from it, it just needs a little thought and once you’re set up it is very, very easy.

LRF Checklist

  • Light lure rod (7+ feet and ideally with a maximum casting weight of less than 12g).
  • Small reel (1000 – 2500 size).
  • Mainline (braid or fluorocarbon. Braided mainline will require the addition of a short fluorocarbon leader. Fluoro straight through: 3lb. Braid: 0.4-0.6PE (6-10lb)(leader 4-6lb)
  • Small selection of jigheads and lures (jigheads from 1-4g with hook sizes between about a size #4 and #10. Lures from 1”-3”).
  • Drop or landing net.
  • An easy-access place to fish.
  • Preferably a fishing buddy or two.

Checklist in detail

The rod: Through experience, we’ve settled on rods that are around 7 feet in length but on occasion have found that longer and shorter rods can be useful. Just over 7 feet seems to be a very comfortable starting length though. Most of this type of fishing is easily done from harbours, pontoons and easy access rock marks where casting distance is not necessary and there are very few snags to complicate things. In reality, the shorter the rod you can get away with using, the more direct your line to the light lures will be. Ultra light rods sometimes come with solid tips for super sensitivity, but to get you started and in to a few fish, either a solid or standard hollow tip will be fine. Fast action (soft-tipped) rods certainly reign supreme, but just to get you out there, and light action spinning rod will suffice. With experience you will start to appreciate the differences and find your own way and personal preferences.

Recommended starter rod: Shimano Scimitar 7′ UL

Reel: Go for a small, front drag reel. It surprises many the things that you can do with a tiny reel, but I can assure you that small (quality) reels are more than capable of landing even 10lb+ fish! Small reels are better balanced with very light rods, and since you aren’t generally trying to cast a long way with LRF, even the smallest reel is likely to hold more than enough braid or fluorocarbon line.

Recommended starter/novice reel: Shimano Catana 1000

Mainline: If you ask me, your mainline (braid or fluorocarbon ideally) is perhaps your most important aspect of your setup. A fine mainline will ensure that your contact with lightweight jigheads (0.5g-5g) is much more direct. When I’m in the shop and talking to LRF newbies about their setup, the common concern that people have is with using lines that seem stupidly light. ”What will happen if I hook a big fish?” is a very common concern. As sea anglers we’re often pretty inexperienced when it comes to actually ‘playing’ fish. Of the guys I know, it’s generally the ones with a little coarse or fly fishing experience that most quickly become confident in actually letting a fish take line – they’re used to landing 20lb fish on 5lb lines. In reality it’s often not too much different at sea. Naturally it all depends on the conditions and ground that you are fishing over but assuming you are basing your first LRF attacks around harbours with clean ground and not too many snags, you will be amazed at how much pressure you can put on 3lb line! Set the drag on your reel and you will find yourself la
nding some very nice fish! I promise! Not every fish will be big enough to take line (don’t be a complete wimp when setting your drag!), but occasionally one will. Be prepared and take your time. The soft actioned rod will cushion your line against all of the fishes head shakes and you will be fine.

You have two options when it comes to choosing your mainline:

Braid: Slightly more costly, braid is thin and strong and is a great starter option if your budget allows. It’s thin diameter makes casting very light jigs infinitely easier and contact between your rod tip and your lure much more direct. I highly recommend not using braid above 6lb breaking strain for LRF. There is still a big difference between budget and quality 6lb braids, but whichever you choose, but not going above 6lb you should have the fine diameter essential for casting. I’m often questioned about this in the shop when customers think ”well, if 6 is ok, can’t I just use 10? I might hook a big one…”. the absolute truth is that there is a BIG difference between 6 and 10lb braids (cheaper ones), so ‘yes’, it does matter. You’ll still be able to fish, but i want you to catch fish and you WILL catch more with 6lb than 10lb. A 4lb difference when we’re talking about general plugging equipment would be almost zero but the lighter you fish in terms of jigheads and lure size, the bigger that difference becomes.

I would recommend uncoated braids in light breaking strains for this fishing, just because stiffer braids leave the spool in coils, and this will really reduce casting distance with light jigs. I’d also suggest using a bright colour like yellow, orange or bright green so that you can see more clearly where your line (and lure) are going. As you go up the quality scale with fine braids (all the way to the uber costly Sunline Small Game PE at the top), the braid becomes smoother, more supple and thinner – these features result in overall brilliant fishing efficiency. Starting with something like 0.6PE Gosen W (9lb) though is a nice step. I’d highly recommend starting with a strict budget to just get yourself out there giving it a go. Experience alone will guide your future tackle choices.

I would select a braided mainline if I were fishing a small jighead on or near to the bottom, or if I am hoping to provide some sort of specific action to the lure – with twitches of the rod tip for example. The lack of stretch in braid means that I (or you) should be able to feel through the braid when your lure bumps in to the bottom, or a fish picks up the lure!

With a braided mainline you will need to use a fluorocarbon ‘leader’. Unlike a ‘shock’ leader used for casting, this form of leader is much shorter. It’s function is two-fold. 1) Fluorocarbon is almost invisible in water so the addition of a short length between your braid and your hook will ensure that fish are not put off by the high visibility of your braid. 2) Braid can be easily broken if rubbed continuously over rocks. The fluorocarbon leader has a very hard surface so will protect a delicate braid from taking too much abuse. An 18” – 3′ leader will be enough to keep your braid out of harms way. If you get more in to the technical side then there are other features of fluorocarbon that will come in to play and you may want to lengthen your leader, but start short so that your leader knot (I find an Albright knot best) is below your rod’s tip ring and you should minimise problems with it choking in the small guides. On a 6lb braid for example, you would select a leader strength to suit what you are trying to do. If you want to fish slightly bigger lures and target 2lb+ fish, then a 5 or 6lb leader will be suitable. If you find that you are catching mostly small fish, or conditions are hard and clear, then even a 2 or 3lb leader will suit. By using braided mainline you can swap your leaders to suit. This leads us on in a second to your other option in a second – fluorocarbon.

Other tips for using braided mainlines: 1) Slightly und
er-fill your spool (3mm-5mm from the spool’s lip). 2) After casting, close the reel’s bail arm manually (with your fingers) – rather than winding it down. 3) After casting, sweep the rod backwards to pick up as much slack line as possible before you start retrieving. If you are to have trouble when using braid, it will 99% be due to slack line having found it’s way back on to your reel!

Recommended starter braid: Gosen W, 0.6PE. Recomended starter leader: Gosen Tiny Leader FC 6lb.

Fluorocarbon: Why fluorocarbon and not simple mono on my reel? Fluorocarbons have come a long, long way in the past 10 years. Originally they were stiff, hard to tie and practically impossible to load on a reel. They’ve always had their advantages though. Like I’ve said, fluorocarbon is almost invisible in water. It is also a very hard material so has great abrasion resistance for when you are fishing around rocks. There are a few issues with monofilament lines, and fluorocarbon gets around and improves on most of them (the list is long so I won’t go in to it fully). Mono; even though we’ve used it for years has less good abrasion resistance, generally more stretch and is also more visible in water. None of these are features that we require – if you are looking for better ‘presentation’. Modern fluorocarbons however are being designed now to be softer (so they don’t spring off of your reel), easier to tie and cheaper than they used to be. Fluorocarbon is still a few pounds more expensive than a cheap mono, but the benefits are many. Fluorocarbon also sinks! Mono floats. This may seem a tiny characteristic to worry about, but when fishing a 1g jighead and a 2” lure, this can make a big difference to your potential catches. The fact that fluorocarbon is ‘heavy’ also makes it a good option when fishing on windy days. This is where it can excel over braid. Light braids are easily blown in the wind, whereas fluorocarbon will generally be better behaved. There’s also no need for a leader when fishing fluorocarbon ‘straight-through’.

The down-side for many saltwater lure anglers wishing to use fluorocarbon mainlines is the realisation that to achieve that fine diameter required for casting such light jigs, fluorocarbon mainline choices should really centre around just 3lb breaking strain! 4lb is ok, as is 2lb for smaller jigs and winter fishing, but it is perhaps the psychological side that must first be overcome. Once you reach 5 or 6lb breaking strain, the thicker diameter brings a real downfall in your potential casting distance. It seems mental, foolhardy and impossible to use and catch fish in the sea on 3lb lines, but as the saying goes; ”don’t knock it until you’ve tried it”. We catch numerous fish to 4lb+ on 3lb lines and losses are very, very few and far between. I’m not recommending targeting 4lb fish on such light lines (the majority of fish around the harbours we fish average less than 1lb), but they do turn up by accident and 99% of the time they do get landed (quite quickly generally) and returned safely in good health. The theory of using light lines (before you’ve done it) can be scary. Once you’ve tried it you will find out exactly how strong 3lb line really is.

So, just to summarise the choice between braid and fluorocarbon mainline… Use braid for working or bouncing lures. Use fluorocarbon for steady retrieves (more than suitable for mackerel, pollack, scad etc) or on windy days when braid is being blown about. If I were to pick one, I would select braid and find myself some shelter on the windy days 😉

Recommended starter fluorocarbon mainline: Yamatoyo Spinning Fluoro 3lb – 150m or Sunline Siglon Fluorocarbon 3lb – 275m.

End tackle: LRF tackle is really, really simple. With the likes of the Ecogear ‘Pocket In’ sets available, you seriously do get everything you need to get you started in one little box. LRF lures may average about 2” long and come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Lures like the EcogearAqua Straw Tail
Grub 2′, EcogearAqua Bream Prawns and the immense Marukyu Power Isome are pretty much all you will need to get you going on the soft lure front. For the warmer months absolutely add some of the Little Jack casting jig sets in 3, 5 or 7g! With some small jigheads averaging around the 2g mark and you will be out catching fish! I tend to recommend that beginners don’t try fishing with less than about 1.5g or 2g, just because by having that little bit of extra weight it will make your first steps a little easier and direct. 3g even will be ok to get you in to it. You will catch more fish in time by going lighter though. Saying that, if it’s windy and deep then even 5 or 7g may be necessary. It’s all about matching your tackle to the conditions, and not just fishing light for the sake of it. LRF excels in easy access areas where you may otherwise never consider fishing. Harbours, marinas, piers etc. are all great places to play. Weight of jighead is not the only important factor – you must also consider the hook size. You need small hooks! Most of the jigheads I use have hook sizes around a size 6 or 8 hook. By using smaller hooks, your tackle is balanced and you will hook and land small fish as well as large fish without issues. If you use large hooks, your presentation will suffer due to the weight of the hook and the smaller fish that you could be catching will remain in the water – rather than in your net! There is no better thing for learning than to be actually catching fish – even if they’re small. LRF is about making the most of EVERY fish that is in front of you. By fishing small your lure becomes food for fish big and small!

Recommended lures: as above. Recommended jigheads: Xesta Star Head, TT Head Hunter #6 and #4, Decoy Rocket Head SV-69.

Nets: A dropnet or a landing net should really be carried at all times – just in case. You’ll be able to swing most of your fish in (even on 3lb line), but occasionally you’ll hook something bigger. If you can get to water level to guide them in then, great! If not, use a net. A coarse/match style landing net and handle are usually ideal. A 3m+ lightweight handle and 20” net usually suffice. Of coarse, a dropnet is likely cheaper and bigger. It’s your choice.

And that’s it…! It really is simple. A small bag is all that’s required to carry such few bits in. Or even just use your pockets! Genius!

LRF is such a social side of fishing that I would strongly recommend trying to get a friend or two to fish with. You will catch fish big and small, and having a friend there to laugh at when he or she catches a proper midget is all part of the fun!

A few more tips before I go:

When playing fish on light rods, try to keep your rod at a 90 degree angle to the fish. This will ensure the rod and line can absorb any of the fishes runs.
When making the decision as to whether a fish is large enough to net or small enough to swing, if you have doubts immediately just net it. It will save faffing about or potentially making the wrong decision in trying to lift a fish and losing it with a hook in its mouth.
If swinging a fish in, be aware of the capabilities of your lightweight rod, reel and line. Do not over stress the rod or your reel. When a fish nears the shore and lies on the surface ready for lifting, wind the rod tip down to take up as much line as possible (so that you are standing with the rod almost pointing down at the fish), then lift in one smooth action. Do not try and crank the fish up using the reels handle. If it feels like there is more than a little strain on the reel then you probably should have net it.
Ultimately it is your decision whether you should be lifting or netting fish, but I’d just use a little common sense and wise judgement. Look after the fish and karma will treat you well.

Apologies for making this one such a hefty read. Things are developing so quickly with lure fishing in the UK at the moment that there is a very high possibility that if I come back to this article in 1
2 months time then parts of it will be slightly different. I’m still learning though, like everybody, and only time will tell where things go. It’s become apparent though that all of the rules we ran by for decades are quite often incorrect. A few days ago I counted how many saltwater species I have caught on lures this year. The answer was 29! TWENTY NINE!!!! All on lures. I know anglers who have had even more than that, and plenty of species that I didn’t catch that I should have done.

Please note: I only recommend light line in conditions and terrain that suit. Light tackle is great fun if used sensibly and at the right times and in the right places. Strong current, severe winds, very rocky ground or the regular presence of larger than average fish (you’ve got to be hooking/catching them rather than just assuming they’re there!) are situations where it would be wise for you to step your tackle up a bit. Whether you go just as far as 6lb or 20lb mainline and leaders is up to you and is a decision best made to suit the day in hand. It’s all about using a bit of common sense and actually thinking about what you’re doing to enable yourself to have the most fun possible – hopefully with as many fish landed as possible. One thing light tackle does do is enable you to consider fishing locaions that you usually ignore – inside harbours for example (if access is permitted). Lugging a seatbox and multiple long rods around may not be something you want to do in such a situation (people would think you were mad), but a small bag and a light rod enables you to keep moving and really explore different areas. This is one thing that I personally love so much about it. In such locations there are often very few snags (and a surprising number of fish/species – which is why it goes hand in hand. It’s a big mistake to think that LRF is all about fishing your current favourite marks with very light tackle. It’s about exploring pastures new and then applying what you will learn to other aspects of your fishing!

In conclusion LRF is not the complicated thing it’s often made out to be (by guys who haven’t tried it). It’s not something that needs to be forced on people, nor something that threatens all other forms of fishing with its righteousness. It’s just an extra string to your bow and certainly one of the most fun ways of fishing that I’ve ever tried.

Ben

7 thoughts on “LRF: What tackle do I need to start?”

  1. Very enlightening article,if only fishermen realised the importance of balanced tackle the best coarse fish I have landed is a 22lb mirror carp on 2.2lb line using a size 18 hook with a feeder rod.
    In sea fishing it’s been a 6lb mullet over rocky ground using 3lb Fluor straight through size 12 carp hook with an agility 5-15 lrf.

  2. Very helpful, was looking to see where I could purchase LRF TACKLE when I came on this article. Surprising how few of the big names in online tackle have no gear mentioned.
    Thanks for your insight.

  3. Great article but one bit slightly confuses me. You state that beginners are best not using braid above 6lb but then you recommend the Gosen 0.6 at 9lb strength as a good starter braid?

    1. Hi Gaz. Yes, things have probably moved on a little with braid since I wrote this one. With some mainstream braids easily available in the UK they tend to put the emphasis on breaking strain over diameter. Often they are not good braids either when it comes to being fine in diameter. In reality breaking strain does not actually matter, but unfortunately we’re still at a point in time where many people will buy by looking at the breaking strain only. It’s a big mistake as two 10lb braids could vary so massively from eachother. Look for diameter only. With Japanese braids like the Gosen, 0.4PE or 0.6PE is what you should lok for – regardless of whether the breaking strain says 6lb or even 12lb. It’s the diameter of any braid that allows you to fish your lures properly, not the breaking strain. Hope this helps. 🙂

    1. Hi Geoff. You can give it a go. The line may be much thicker than we’d usually use (approx. 0.06/0.08mm) but by giving it a go with what you have you will quickly realise the limitations of the line itself so that you have something to compare with when you go finer.

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